Boomerang

UE 5+ and a Pacific Theatre with Jason, No 1 way to go and no doubt will be a very exciting journey ahead. This will be epic!

Old style muscle car colours do look great, I like them too. To Experiment: Purchased some really cheap Alnico 2 and Alnico 5 humbuckers (Fleor brand). They are split-able, hopefully when wired the sound/tone is something like vintage style PAF's.. Fingers crossed they come kind of close, if not, I'll just keep experimenting. For the 5150, I already had a Dimarzio F Spaced Tone Zone, which I like. (tested before the guitar was pulled apart for paint, so that will be reinstalled).

Great job Bobo, I was wondering how you were progressing with your Sherwood Green, (twin), they all look fantastic. I painted/sealed my twin guitar to the blue pearl one today in 2k, decided on pearl white.

Still working through the bucket list. The weather has been quite hot, so hot the paint was flashing really fast on the surface where in one area the solvents evaporating formed a paint bubble on a black striped edge. Never experienced that before. I really put the the paint on as wet as it gets, (Montana spray can of matt clear acrylic lacquer). Anyhow, that was fixed real quick the next day. Only other set back was the tape purchased from amazon. The tape was the cheaper yellow pin stripe varied sizes deal. Lol, man, that tape was rubbish, it left sticky junk behind once removed. Was tricky cleaning the tape residue off with prepsol/wax & grease remover on fresh day old paint. The red paint was coming off as well. It would have been better leaving the paint to completely dry for a good week or more as this would have been less troublesome. Nether the less, the sticky tape residue was completely removed. There are templates for the stripes online, (with sizes), so that's what was used prior. The orange/red colour is Montana's "Blood Orange", which is pretty close to Chevy Red Orange engine enamel, but I wasn't going to use any enamel what so ever on this, (that's just looking for trouble). I may dry sand in a couple of weeks, and apply matt 2k poly, but rather like the texture as it is. Iv'e scrubbed the idea of doing a "Donnie" tribute on the other JS style. Did start on the head stock, but the water based paint I had to use was just not happening, appeared too washed out/thin.

Thanks, the motor city tele is fantastic, a real work of art, very talented and thank you for the info. Images, sure, need to excuse all the finger prints, dark colours and all. Left to do now is install the strap buttons and make a cavity cover, (It's been playing allot to continue the finishing touches atm) . S!

Hi, Wishing all are well. Today My son and I played the above Blue guitar after setting it up, sounds great, nice to play. I'll post some pictures really soon. Below is the wiring circuit chosen, (which was fiddly). I found the ends of new guitar strings, (that are cut off), make great earths and help out with tricky fine connections. Handy tools for nut fitting fine chamfering of edges etc was paddle pop sticks and wooden paint stirring sticks that have adhesive sand paper stuck to them. Was thinking about using an old looking car number plate for a pick guard on a Tele. The Rustins brand make great conductive paint for the electronic cavities on guitars, it drys fairly quickly in a warm environment and a little goes a long way. I might try organic coconut oil for a rosewood fret board and see how it holds up, not sure if it will become rancid or not. I've used a home brew of steel wool, vinegar, tea, green tea that was left to sit sealed for months. Applied, (well shaken), to raw Maple neck which made it appear aged, weathered. * Feel free to suggest any suggestions regarding any tools or recycled items that help out as well, would be great hearing about them. S!

Son loves it. This personal budget custom "ibanez look a like" is nearing completion now, just waiting on pickups from the UK to install. Value for me was my sons assistance, being one of those father son projects.

I ran the polisher over the guitar body today in order to see how it's progressing. Needs a little more time, sure is slippery.

Hi all, If anyone is planning on painting their own guitars in the future, or a timber product, just remember to "dry sand" everything. Some folks will wet sand the top coat prior to polishing and may have had some success doing so. However, there is a risk of swelling if any water enters or comes in contact with raw timber, (such as drilled holes for example). This can lead to cracks in the finish on your product. Just thought I'd mention this, it would be horrible someone putting all the effort in only to discover this was one of those harder lessons better avoided. S!

I forgot to mention, (regarding the blue pearl guitar), the pearl coat was made up with Acrylic Lacquer Clear and sealed with just 2 coats of Acrylic Lacquer Clear. Mid sanding is a very light scuff, which is kind of like a light wipe over with a P600 sanding sponge, (dry). That assists with adhesion for the following 2k coats X3. Iv'e discovered I'm out of cutting compound, so I will be trying the Mothers Professional Rubbing Compound 81138, which is a little less aggressive than the 3M brand I run out of. The cut will now be sanded with P 1500 wet & dry sandpaper prior to the polishing.

This is what the 4:1 white epoxy primer looks like after 5 coats in total. Three coats are applied first, then left to dry a few days, sanded with P 240 dry, blown down with compressed air, prepsoled, wiped with a new clean cotton cloth. The work is blown down again and wiped with a micro fibre cloth before 2 more coats of primer is applied. (This Primer is available in Black as well, that's what the Blue Pearl guitar was primed in). In approx a week, this will be dry sanded with P320-P400 sandpaper, blown off with compressed air again etc, etc. The next coat will be the colour base coat. (Montana Brand acrylic spray cans are cheap to purchase and work great, much cheaper than the 1K coloured group base paint option). There are purple sanding sponges on TEMU that are really cheap to buy and they work very well. Ali Express has good gravity fed 1.4 tip spray guns for around $100 US $130 AU. I bought the colour bases in spray cans from Amazon. The pearl powders, 2:1 polyurethane clear over base, polyurethane thinners, 4:1 epoxy primer, acrylic lacquer thinners, blue painters tape were purchased from ebay. The Prepsol, (wax & grease remover), Local Bunnings or hardware store. The P grades of sandpaper Iv'e mentioned can produce a good result. Some folks will use finer P grades, which is not necessary, yet could create adhesion issues during tape removal , etc. Best advise I can offer painting wise is: 26 c degree day min temp, low humidity, 50/50 paint overlap when spraying. Decent lighting situation in order to see the paint atomise on the surface during paint applications. Spay cans: shake more than recommended and place bottom half of cans in hot water prior to using them, (they just spray better). Remember to wipe all the Prepsol off with a new clean rag, if you don't, "Fish eye" may be something that will need fixing and that's not fun when using overlays such as pearls or candy colours. This generally means = Start again. The don'ts: Stay well away from any enamel paints when doing jobs like these. Enamels don't play nicely with Acrylic or other 2 pack products very well. Crows foot is generally the result. This also = Start again.. The paint needs to be removed. Wishing all are well. S!

2K polyurethane applied yesterday. Just need to allow a week or so to pass now, then wet sand with 1200 lightly to remove the Orange Peel, cut/polish etc. My son wanted a gloss finish rather than flat. It's been a very long time since I painted anything like this. Last job similar to this was on a Dodge Phoenix in the 90's.